Work through each point below to find your problem.

1. First ensure that the setup in Hyperspace is done according to the startup procedure. This means you will only have a P1 and P4 connector on the Mercury2. The other connectors must be open, except for the Comms cable. Open the software and connect to the Mercury2.
2. Ensure that the correct firmware is loaded into the ECU or TCU for the specific trigger pattern of your engine. You can click on information button to verify.
3. Make sure the Jumper settings are set for magnetic sensors. On Mercury2 the 2-pin jumper must be open. You may now crank the engine without the other connectors.
4. Ensure that battery volts on the Real-time Volt Bar does not fall too low. A healthy battery will crank at 11 volts and higher. Under 9 volts, the sensor signal becomes weak and falls below the voltage threshold of Mercury2. Note: If it falls below 10 see chapter about ‘Power Connection’.
5. Look if any error codes are displayed at the bottom. If there are errors remedy the fault. See Error codes.
6. Look at the RPM signal in the Real-time Display while cranking. It should show 200 to 300 rpm consistently. If it shows erratic readings and runs wild do not proceed to start! It must be constant. It means the edge setting is wrong or incorrect firmware or there is interference on the trigger signal and the ECU sees them as trigger pulses.
7. If it shows no error and no RPM it means that the ECU does not pick up the signal from the sensor. Proceed to testing the sensor itself.
8.  Make sure you use the correct sensor size with your crank trigger wheel size. If the magnet of the sensor is larger than the gap in the teeth, then your signal will be very week. Rather use a gear with less teeth for the diameter or a sensor with a smaller sensing diameter. If you can’t see the magnet protruding from the sensor, put a bit of iron filings on the tip. The magnetic field will show the diameter of the internal magnet immediately. In this case you may enlarge the sensing distance it the signal is strong enough. See the illustration below.

Testing the sensor.

1. Ensure that the thick black earth wire from the Mercury2 is earthed properly. Also make sure that the thin black wires coming from the harnesses are also tied to this point. We call this junction Test Point A
2. Disconnect P1 from the Mercury2. Now use a multi meter and set it on 2000-ohm scale.
3. Measure from Test Point A to pin 12 on the P1 harness connecter. You should get a resistance of 300 to 2000 ohm depending on the sensor. If you swop the meter wires you must read the same ohm measurement. If you don’t get a reading it means your sensor is not connected correctly. Check your wiring connections. NB! Do not press too hard on the female pins as you may damage them resulting in poor contact later.

Harness Pin view

4. If you do get a reading put the meter on AC volts and measure on the same points. Use the lowest scale or 20 volts. Now crank the engine. The sensor will generate AC volts. Mercury2 requires a voltage above 0.5-volt peak to peak and above. If this voltage is lower, it means the signal is too weak and the ECU will not sense it properly. This could be due to a dirty sensor or the gap is too wide between the sensor and the gear. The gap is normally below 1 mm. It could also be that the sensor magnet inside the sensor is wider than the width in the teeth if it’s a custom installation.

Errors and misfire during running or starting.

If the startup procedure tested correctly but you get errors during starting the engine, read through the following points.

1. The ignitions’ coils may generate interference spikes on the crank sensor wires. Ensure that the sensor wire is screened as close to the sensor as possible. If you connect to a distant connector there is usually a screen pin that has to be connected to the ECU harness screen.
2. The coils may spike the Mercury2 and it may want to restart. This may be due to incorrect supply currents or relay wiring. An indication of this error is that the software will lose connection momentarily to the Mercury2. A restart error will come up.
3. Errors that comes at higher RPM’s may be due to a trigger wheel that is not balanced or is buckled. Sensing distance may be too large. It could also be due to a small gear teeth pitch, or a sensor with a large sensing magnet. The 2-pin jumper is on and it should be off.
4. Ensure that the test signal next to the crank sensor in the ECU software is off.
5. The RPM on the sensor signal could fade, this could be due to the gap between it and the trigger wheel been too close or too far apart.
6. Incorrect sparkplugs may generate feedback which leave spikes in the trigger signal. Normally resistor plugs are used for COP engines and non-resistor plugs for HT leads. Note: Ensure that you use carbon HT leads and not copper leads. Cracked lead also play havoc. A trick is to look at them in the dark while it idles. It will show flashes in the dark.